Archive | August, 2013

Awesome Argentine Rock Band – ToniMontaña

We discovered ToniMontaña while walking the streets in San Telmo, Buenos Aires.   I have bought many a CD of street bands that seemed great at the time, only to have the experience be a flop when played at home. Untrue for ToniMontaña. Enjoy 60 seconds of their music cast to the sights of BA.   Not sure why you can not buy them on iTunes. Here is the only link I could find.


BA Street Fair from Two Fish on Vimeo.

 

 BA Streets in Photos

 

Nuss Hotel Buenos Aires Soho / Restaurant Review of Palermo, BA

Nuss Hotel Review:   Room was an 8 out of 10 on my very harsh rating scale.   Wonderful room came with large bed and a large day bed.  Modern bath and nice almond treat as a welcoming gift.   Food was good but only had breakfast.   Would stay here again as location is in the hip part of Palermo.

BA Dinner Review:   2 out of 10 on my generous rating scale.   Mexicana is so bad that I am sure they will be closed before you visit.   The best moment was while ordering. I asked for a a salad and three tacos.   “But sir, the tacos come with a salad are you sure you still want to order a salad?”, the waitress said. “Thanks,  I will pass then.”, I replied.   The salad with the taco was 1 mini leaf of lettuce.   Enough said. Do not go here even if starving.

 

For Foodies

Gail attacks the meat

 

 

There have been all too many posts about sailing technology on this blog.   The entertainment value of the pros and cons of water pumps has its limits for most of our readers.  We, like many people, enjoy traveling and discovering different food.   We both enjoy trying new recipes; however, I prefer it if Gail acts as my taste tester.  Bit regal of me!


Argentine Food from Two Fish on Vimeo.

 

It is early days for a blog post on Argentine cuisine, but here is a list of highs and lows in San Fernando…

de lo Roy Cafe

de lo Roy Cafe

Best:   Cafe lo de Roy.  We had salads with chicken and brie and they were perfect.   Dressings ranged from lemon juice to the usual oil and vinegar and a garlic potion.   The service is great, as it is a family business.  Sons, daughters, brother-in-laws and such are making sure your time on the sunny patio results in a fantastic lunch.   The place exudes a home-like feeling, with a nice dose of humble, which is the perfect combination for a traveler far from home.  (Located on Primera Junta near Gaboto, San Isidro). Note to self: spotted nearby was a very nice looking fruit and vegetable store.

Runner up:  The Yacht Club Argentino (YCA) requires you to be with a member to get access, but if you do get in, it has a great feeling and a nice light lunch. On a particularly chilly day, we were given a tasty lentil soup amuse-bouche.   The walls are covered with great sailing shots from Optimists to big boats and the clients seem to be the connected businessmen of Buenos Aires.   Do not fill up on the bread, as the main course should be enough to keep you fueled for an afternoon tour of the factory.

High score:  Dutch Cafe near the Marina Nueva station serves a nice salad with your choice of salmon or chicken on top. Coffee folk: do order a Cortado after your meal. Dutch Cafe is closed on Mondays, but on other days you have a good chance of sighting upper management of 40 Degrees Sud (boat builder). The river view from the patio on summer days is a real bonus. Address: Arias 2400 Telephone: 4746-7044

Havanna Coffee House

Havanna Coffee House

Medium High: Havanna is a coffee chain, so this is not a

Cortado with the trimmings

Cortado with the trimmings

diamond in the rough. However, they have a great way of serving their coffee – you get the coffee, a small glass of water, a small glass of fresh orange juice and an Alfajore, a traditional Argentine sandwich cookie with dulce de leche. The ones at Havanna are dipped in chocolate. What a civilized way to live. I am a bit concerned that Gail has developed a bit of a Havanna habit. Other Argentinean places serve coffee like this; when are the Americans going to learn? BTW, Gail drinks coffee but I got the same perks with a tea.

Medium:   Hotel Jacaranda serves an efficient and simple breakfast, included with the room.   Hits what I consider the high points.   OJ, tea, corn flakes, fruit, and some eggs if you ask nicely.   As dinner time rolls around (8pm) you will notice two things: the TV is left on, pumping out the latest Argentine news and the Americans (that would be us) are already seated.  The TV was engaging since the upcoming elections in Argentina are important.

Pompeii Restaurant

Low:  Downtown San Fernando is limited on a Sunday night and you most likely will end up at Pompeii. Not great pizza, breaded chicken with lots of cheese and chop suey that is left in the wok too long. Gail thinks it is not as bad as I make it out to be. Tip #1: the salad bar section of the menu means you order a custom mix from your waiter and he brings it. Not a bad salad.  Tip #2:  Pompeii offers free beer at certain times of the day. Unfortunately, the offer is a bit random so you will have to try your luck.

Lowest:  The Sports Bar in San Fernando serves a Caesar Salad that is about 30% mozzarella cheese and 20% croutons.   In some of the guide books, they have mentioned that vegetables and salads are not really an Argentine tradition.   So, to be fair, we may be poor food critics since steaks are not our thing.   Sorry Argentina to judge you on your salads. Tied for lowest on the salad scale was a restaurant that Gail wanted to try. From a distance it had a sign with Bio-organic on it. Combine that with the fact that someone told us it was a vegetarian place and our hopes were high. However, upon arriving, we realized they sell Deli meats and little else. Oh well. Until we splash, when in SF, we’ll stick to our top picks.

 

A single painting is an Argentine history primer – Artist Alfredo Bettanin

 

San Maratín, Rosas, Perón

San Martín, Rosas, Perón

While visiting the Bicentenial Museum in Buenos Aires, I admired this painting that encapsulates the history of Argentina.   I have tried to research the painting, but much of my source material is in Spanish and translated by Google.  Eager to hear corrections from those who know better.

Queen Isabella

Queen Isabella

1510 – Arrival of the Spaniards in the Rio Plata – The upper left hand corner illustrates the arrival of the Europeans.   Queen Isabella and Columbus are depicted above the caravelle. However, neither one visited Argentina.  The corpses are of the  indigenous population to whom the European diseases were more potent than Spanish horses or swords.  This Revisionist view postulates that the arrival of the Europeans ruined the Americas.  It is easy to support this view as disease, war and other oppressions destroyed much of the original society.   One art critic disagreed  with revisionism. stating it discounts the benefits and progress of current Argentine society.  The critic asks revisionists “to wear a loin cloth of the pre-european days”.   I hear the art critic’s point but it seems rather out of touch and self-serving.  Furthermore, who knows how the cultures of the Rio Plata would have developed without European involvement?   Enough of my soapbox on a topic I know very little about.  Back to “reading” the painting.

 

Tupac Amaru

Tupac Amaru

 

1572 Tupac Amaru is killed – Further down along the left of the painting is a pilgrim-esque symbol which speaks to the connections the Spaniards had with some of the indigenous people (San Martin on horseback with the  Incan leader Tupac Amaru)   Túpac Amaru (Incan leader) was falsely convicted of murder and sentenced to a beheading.  Before his execution, Catholic clerics pleaded that the Incan be sent to Spain for a trial, instead of being executed.  Some have argued that Viceroy Toledo, in executing a head of state recognized by the Spanish as an independent King, exceeded his authority and committed a crime within the political ideas of his own time.

So far the painting is critical of the major figures in Argentine history, but I doubt any former colony would fair much better.

 

english lion

1807 English Lion and 1812 Flag Creator

1807 English annex Buenos Aires –   The Lion symbolizes the British invasion, a turning point in Argentine history.   The British were repelled by Creole forces.    I thought Creole was a New Orleans bayoux culture, but in an Argentine context it refers to a person of 100% Spanish descent who was born in Argentina.   This is important to the story since the Spaniards (born in Spain) held more of the important positions in early Argentine society than the Creole.   When the Brits came to invade, the Spaniards fled but the home-born Creole stayed to fight.   After this win, much of the Spanish leadership was sent home and the colony garnered more independence.

1810  Revolution –  The painting now illustrates the 1810 May revolution.   Spain and France are at war and the French have taken control of much of Spain. This was the beginning of the war of independence for the entire South American continent.  I suppose the logic was something like this: Spain lost control of their own country to the French, so why should they continue to control South America?  Not bad logic in my opinion. You may see the avenue name 25 de Mayo, or Plaza de Mayo in BA and other towns. 25th Mayo, 1810 is the Día de la Revolución de Mayo, when Buenos Aires ousted the Spanish.

Naked San Martin

Naked San Martin

Near the center of the painting there is a naked guy next to a man in a blue suit.   Controversially, the artist painted San Martin, leader of an attack on Chile via the Andes,  naked to symbolize the lack of support Buenos Aires gave San Martin. San Martin is famous in Argentine history for his brave efforts to free the continent of the Spanish and for the “Crossing of the Andes” military campaign to out the Chilean royalists in 1817.

1812 Argentine Flag created –  On the left edge of the painting is man in a green jacket with peace birds on his head.   This is Manuel Belgrano who is credited with creating the Argentine flag (good job) and one of the main Libertadores of the country.  His full name if you ever needed to greet him formally is Manuel José Joaquín del Corazón de Jesús Belgrano.  I bet his friends called him Manny.  Another Libertadore leader,  San Martin, is painted nearby with a flag.  The pair are Argentine versions of Betsy Ross and George Washington. Another key date,  9th July, 1816, is when the Argentines declared independence from Spain; this is also commemorated in many towns with Avenida 9 de Julio.

DSC01548 (2)

José de San Martín appears a third time in the painting, accompanied by a village.   I suppose that says he was either a man of the people or a village people?   San Martin receives much credit for leading troops to free large parts of Argentina from Spanish rule.

 

 

1833  British control Las Malvinas / Falklands  At the top of the painting the artist shows the British warships headed for an island which harkens clearly to the sensitive topic of the islands.  I will steer clear of this since both countries have been wonderful hosts to me in my travels.   I have no dog in this fight and less understanding of the long history.   But do have an interest in visiting the windswept islands.

Politics of Trade

 

1845 Anglo-French Blockade of Argentina – Buenos Aires has grown because of its power as a port city.   Oddly, the Spanish originally decreed that all of the goods from their South American colonies should travel over the Andes via horseback to Lima and then from Lima to modern-day Panama by sea and finally over land again through Central America.   The goods waited in Cuba for a protected delivery to Spain.   This seemingly insane plan was needed to avoid looting by French and English ships.   Clearly, few goods followed this path and Buenos Aires became a smuggler’s paradise.   By the 1840s, BA’s role as a major port for silver, cow hides, and other products was well established.  Juan Manuel Rosas, leader of Argentina, had impossed protective tarriffs to enhance the fledgling Argentine economy.   Britain and France did not comply and began trading goods inside Argentine rivers.   This prompted  a 5-year blockade, which Argentina was able to survive. Eventually Britain and France signed an agreement acknowledging Argentine river sovereignty.  The chain in the painting is Argentina preventing European ships from sailing upriver and next to this is an Argentine soldier kicking an English merchant.   This is a rather nationalistic painting, but what else would you expect in a a country’s National museum?

Rosa with the lower classes

Rosa with the lower classes

Juan Manuel Rosas (1793-1877) was no small figure in Argentine history.   He controlled the country with a totalitarian fist.   Like any dictator he had a penchant for the dramatic.   The Argentine governor  mandated that the slogan “Death to the Savage Unitarians” be inscribed at the top of all official documents.  Anyone on the state payroll was obliged to wear a red badge with the inscription “Federation of Death”.  Every male was supposed to have a “federal look”, i.e., to sport a large mustache and sideburns. Many resorted to wearing false mustaches. The red color became omnipresent in the province of Buenos Aires. Soldiers wore red chiripás and their horses sported red accouterments. Civilian males wore a red waistcoat, red badge and red hatband while women wore red ribbons and children donned red school uniforms.  Building exteriors and interiors were also decorated in red.

20th Century - Oil

20th Century – Oil

 

Twentieth Century  –   This portion of the painting shows some famous moments from 1900 to 1940.   In 1929, Argentina was wealthy, but the prosperity ended with the worldwide Great Depression of 1929. In 1930, a military coup, supported by the Argentine Patriotic League, forced Hipólito Yrigoyen from power. Support for the coup was bolstered by the sagging Argentine economy, as well as a string of bomb attacks and shootings involving radical anarchists. The attacks alienated moderate elements of Argentine society and angered the conservative right, which had long been agitating for decisive action by the military forces.  The military coup initiated the period known as the “Infamous Decade”, characterised by electoral fraud, persecution of the political opposition and pervasive government corruption.   The most famous (and perhaps most symbollic of anarchism’s decay in Argentina at the time) action was the execution of Severino Di Giovanni, who was captured in late January 1931 and executed on the first of February of the same year.

 

President Peron

President Peron

Peron  1940-1974

Peron was elected President of Argentina three times, serving first from June 1946 until September 1955, when he was overthrown by a coup d’état, and then from October 1973 to July 1974.  During his first Presidential term, Perón was supported by his second wife, Eva Duarte (“Evita”), and the two were immensely popular among many Argentines. Eva died in 1952.   Peron lives on today via his politcal party known as Peronists.   I am still trying to understand Peron but it seems like he was part FDR.  He pushed the state to expand the social welfare net, but at some point the economy could not handle the burden and went into a severe contraction.   This has been an all too common outcome of good intentions.

State of Argentina
State of Argentina
The woman lying in the center of the painting is the State of Argentina.  She is wounded and staked down.  In her hand is Eva Peron.  Is Eva saving the state?   Why is the state missing part of her abdomen?   Lost territory, lost citizens?

 

Gail spots a whale

While walking back from the kitchen, eagle eye Gail saw what looked like an Antares sailing past our apartment.  There many more needles in a haystack than Antares sailboats on the ocean.  With the zoom lens I was able to confirm the impossible, it was an Antares.   The 43rd Antares has just splashed – the odds of spotting one of these hulls out of all of the boats sailing down the East River are truly slim.   Many Antares are in the Caribbean, some are in the Pacific, and two are still in South America.   However, this needle just sailed by our apartment.

Anyone know Antares hull #20 Cinderella?

 

Cinderella on East Rivers/v Cinderella