Do the Dismal

The InterCoastal Waterway (ICW) was Jason’s gift to me.  He did not procure a shovel and dig the waterway, but he reluctantly agreed to travel this route, rather than going out into the open ocean.   The Atlantic Coast portion, from Virginia to Florida, measures about 1,100 miles. It is a slow trip with no open ocean passages and no overnight trips. Perfect Gail travel. Before entering the ICW, we transited past the navy base in Norfolk, Virginia.  To starboard we saw a Littoral (close to shore)

ship, a fairly recent addition to the Navy. Littorals come in monohull and catamaran versions but have been a bit of a flop.

At the start of the ICW, one can decide to either traverse the “Virginia Cut” (1 lock, good depth)  or the “Dismal” (2 locks, questionable depth). We chose the Dismal as it is the more scenic route. The name most likely originates from the common term for swamp in the 1600s being a “dismal.” No one seems to mind the redundancy.

The Dismal Swamp Company, formed in 1763, had George Washington as its most famous shareholder.  Washington might have been the first President involved in a real estate deal with odd government connections, but certainly not the last.  While they began the process of clearing the swamp for transit, it wasn’t until 1793 that serious clearing began, as authorized by Virginia and North Carolina. Many boaters have unwittingly helped dredge the canal since then. We found that the best way to navigate was to use our time-tested method of following a boat with a

deeper draft than Two Fish. However, there were two challenges: 1) being a catamaran, we have “two boats” to keep off the bottom and, 2) the lead boat’s sudden turn could be to avoid a hazard or a malfunctioning autopilot. In fact, later in our trip I radioed a lead boat to ask what they were avoiding by swerving.  Their response: “No. My wife just hit a button by mistake.” It didn’t take him too long to give up his spouse.

This was the first time Two Fish and her crew had transited a lock.   We had a bit of newbie nerves but it turned out to be easy. The lock operator asked that catamarans not take the first or last spot in the lock. One person holds the bow line and the other the stern line.   As the water level changes the crew adjust the two dock lines.  Single-handers seem to have no problem doing this alone. Our skills keep expanding, but we are not ready for the Panama Canal just yet. The lock-keeper, Robert, is well known for his wonderful lecture about the swamp. There is a swing bridge right after the lock and Robert is also the bridge operator.  When everyone is through the lock he gets in his car and drives a mile to open the bridge. So did we run aground in the shallow dismal swamp?  No, but we had 4 touches.   We skidded over a mud bar.  We skirted by a bush.  And we struck a sunken log, which a diver would later report removed a bit of bottom paint. I said four touches but I only listed 3.  That last threat would come from another direction.

I was so focused on looking forward that I forgot to look above and our wind indicator was violently ripped off by an overhanging tree branch. Fortunately, our expensive electronic wind indicator remained in place but  the cheap mechanical windex is now sleeping with the dismal fishes.  After exiting the swamp via the next lock, we chatted with one of our neighboring boats. He was very happy to have had no incidents in the swamp. I didn’t point out to him that the tree branch in his mast might be an indication that he had a few incidents too.  The Dismal Swamp is gorgeous but the hidden logs make the trip a bit stressful.  One visit for us was enough.  I hope the Dismal devotees that can spend a week in the swamp do not take our feedback personally.

We anchored in Elizabeth City at sundown and were on our way to our next

anchorage the following day. On our way out, we sailed past the airship factory, where most blimps are manufactured. Our friends on Steadfast captured our early morning departure.