Author Archive | Gailfish

The InterCoastal Waterway (ICW) was Jason’s gift to me.  He did not procure a shovel and dig the waterway, but he reluctantly agreed to travel this route, rather than going out into the open ocean.   The Atlantic Coast portion, from Virginia to Florida, measures about 1,100 miles. It is a slow trip with no open ocean passages and no overnight trips. Perfect Gail travel. Before entering the ICW, we transited past the navy base in Norfolk, Virginia.  To starboard we saw a Littoral (close to shore)

ship, a fairly recent addition to the Navy. Littorals come in monohull and catamaran versions but have been a bit of a flop.

At the start of the ICW, one can decide to either traverse the “Virginia Cut” (1 lock, good depth)  or the “Dismal” (2 locks, questionable depth). We chose the Dismal as it is the more scenic route. The name most likely originates from the common term for swamp in the 1600s being a “dismal.” No one seems to mind the redundancy.

The Dismal Swamp Company, formed in 1763, had George Washington as its most famous shareholder.  Washington might have been the first President involved in a real estate deal with odd government connections, but certainly not the last.  While they began the process of clearing the swamp for transit, it wasn’t until 1793 that serious clearing began, as authorized by Virginia and North Carolina. Many boaters have unwittingly helped dredge the canal since then. We found that the best way to navigate was to use our time-tested method of following a boat with a

deeper draft than Two Fish. However, there were two challenges: 1) being a catamaran, we have “two boats” to keep off the bottom and, 2) the lead boat’s sudden turn could be to avoid a hazard or a malfunctioning autopilot. In fact, later in our trip I radioed a lead boat to ask what they were avoiding by swerving.  Their response: “No. My wife just hit a button by mistake.” It didn’t take him too long to give up his spouse.

This was the first time Two Fish and her crew had transited a lock.   We had a bit of newbie nerves but it turned out to be easy. The lock operator asked that catamarans not take the first or last spot in the lock. One person holds the bow line and the other the stern line.   As the water level changes the crew adjust the two dock lines.  Single-handers seem to have no problem doing this alone. Our skills keep expanding, but we are not ready for the Panama Canal just yet. The lock-keeper, Robert, is well known for his wonderful lecture about the swamp. There is a swing bridge right after the lock and Robert is also the bridge operator.  When everyone is through the lock he gets in his car and drives a mile to open the bridge. So did we run aground in the shallow dismal swamp?  No, but we had 4 touches.   We skidded over a mud bar.  We skirted by a bush.  And we struck a sunken log, which a diver would later report removed a bit of bottom paint. I said four touches but I only listed 3.  That last threat would come from another direction.

I was so focused on looking forward that I forgot to look above and our wind indicator was violently ripped off by an overhanging tree branch. Fortunately, our expensive electronic wind indicator remained in place but  the cheap mechanical windex is now sleeping with the dismal fishes.  After exiting the swamp via the next lock, we chatted with one of our neighboring boats. He was very happy to have had no incidents in the swamp. I didn’t point out to him that the tree branch in his mast might be an indication that he had a few incidents too.  The Dismal Swamp is gorgeous but the hidden logs make the trip a bit stressful.  One visit for us was enough.  I hope the Dismal devotees that can spend a week in the swamp do not take our feedback personally.

We anchored in Elizabeth City at sundown and were on our way to our next

anchorage the following day. On our way out, we sailed past the airship factory, where most blimps are manufactured. Our friends on Steadfast captured our early morning departure.

Before starting down the Inter-Coastal Waterway (ICW), we had one more stop to make. Encouraged by another Northwesterly on its way towards us, we reversed into a tough spot at

the Hampton Public Piers – crosswinds, currents and dolphin pilings aren’t our favorite companions.  We did learn a new docking trick.   We had to back into this spot but the side dock was short, so the bow is tied up to a piling.  Our initial idea was to loop a line on the piling while we passed it and then back into the slip.  This is a silly idea in the cross-current as the boat is forced to slow down at the wrong time.   The best way to enter this type of slip is to reverse in all the way at a decent speed to fight the cross-current.   Next, attach the stern on the up-current side.   Then motor forward to attach the boat to the piling.   We are living and learning.  Our clumsy arrival was rewarded with  shelter of the Hampton Parking Garage which kept the 25+ knot winds away from Two Fish. Hampton also has some good restaurants and it is a fun meeting point for fellow boaters heading south.

Yorktown was just a half hour away and the bonus was that Calypso was docked there. We enjoyed Ranger Rick’s walk – meant for the folks in the Financial Department at Langley but he let us tag along. I tuned out a bit to wonder when I would get lunch, but Ed, Maite and Jason seemed to be absorbing all of the data. I did learn how much we owed the French for leading us against the British on the battlefield.  In the decisive battle of Yorktown the French brought more troops, lost more lives and brought the only Navy.   Why?  Because they hated the English.   Not much has changed.

Our other revolutionary stop was Williamsburg. My last visit was in the  70’s and my vague memories were of a more laid-back town than the current Disneyesque area. Despite that, we enjoyed our tours of the Governour’s Palace and Capital, given by the enthusiastic tour guides. I enjoyed seeing Chowning’s Tavern, where we had eaten Brunswick Stew and Welsh Rarebit aka Grilled Cheese Olden Style on my last visit.

Don’t miss the Newport Mariner’s Museum; it is definitely joining our top ten list of Maritime Museums. Their major project is recovering the USS Monitor, a civil war battleship recovered off Cape Hatteras and undergoing conservation efforts. It was exciting to see an example of a Jangada, a Brazilian fishing boat, in the International Small Boat exhibition.  We  saw them frequently on the beaches and waters of Northern Brazil.  Also interesting was the April Fool, a small boat that was sailed from Casablanca to Florida in 1968. That is not a boat for me. The miniature fleet of model ships created by August Crabtree was more my style.

The lines were short at the historic sights because the tourist season is over.  We keep feeling like party guests that have stayed long past desert or after the keg has gone dry.   The cold weather reminds us to head south as Two Fish wants to swim in warmer waters.  Going to museums is territory for school children, retirees on tour buses, and curious cruisers. I enjoy learning more of our history without having to take a test on it next week.

We recently celebrated our first year of living aboard.  We have learned so much.  We continue to perfect the types of activities that make cruising enjoyable for us.   We rent cars at times, visit any museum that will have us,  eat out too much, watch movies, take hot showers on board, use the heaters, and bake brownies.   It has taken us a year to convert from delivery skippers to cruisers.   The transition still has a long way to go.

 

After a pleasant trip across the bay, we grabbed a mooring ball at Solomons, and got some rest, especially well-deserved for Jason. I had a  cold, and he took the bulk of the helming for the day. The only exception was when I managed to shred the self-tailer on the winch, while raising the mainsail. The good news was that we had broken it once before and knew what parts to order.

We enjoyed the hospitality of our mooring ball at Zanhiser’s and marveled at the number of Canadian boats. Each evening 4 or 5 would arrive and each morning they were gone. Was the whole country emptying? Clearly, some Snowbirds were moving South with a bit more purpose than we were. We saw numerous Catamarans, including sister ship Blue Dawn. Two Fish could finally feel that she wasn’t the beamiest boat in the basin. We visited the local Calvert Marine Museum; the highlight was watching the otter eat his lunch, including a boiled egg for dessert. Solomons’ current name derives from a businessman who bought up most of the town in the early 1800’s and established a cannery; be sure not to call it “The Solomons”. The town used to be connected to Solomons Island by a bridge, but the water has been filled in over the years, leaving just a bit of the original wooden structure.

 

We waited for some good weather for our sail to Deltaville – there is always some debate on Two Fish as to what that means. Based on the forecast, I thought I could be okay with a couple of hours of gusts to 25 with the wind dying down as the day went on. We rarely saw 25 as most of the day was in the low 30s with a gust to 39. I visited my traditional windy spot – the master cabin – as Jason steered us downwind through the waves. At one point, I heard “Do you want to know how fast we are going?”.  I responded that the less I knew about speed the better.   The master cabin can become the denial zone.  Jason ignored my request for silence, claiming he could not help himself.  “15.7 knots. I stowed some canvas as the water was stacking up by the bow in the big puffs.”

Needless to say, I was happy to anchor in Deltaville. After navigating through the tricky channel, we found a great spot in the Western arm of Jackson Creek. If you visit via boat, take care to follow all channel markers and check their numbers to make sure you find all of them, especially the first two.  They must have bought the markers on sale, since they do not match.   Looks like a bachelor’s sock drawer full of mismatched reds and greens.

Anchoring was easy for us in the Chesapeake.  There are many places to drop hook. In most cases, the 33kg Rocna set very well on the first time.  We had to thoroughly wash the chain with our sea water pump during weighing to remove profuse quantities of mud.  At the bow, I would do an odd dance of pressing the up button on the windlass, operating the hose, removing the beehiving chain and directing Jason at the helm.  He would be doing very little at these times. Oh, to be Captain.   Frequently my sailing gloves and my jacket would acquire mud stains after weighing anchor.   Jason offers a deluxe service and washes them at our next sighting of a hose. We like a lot of space and were able to choose creeks with enough space for Two Fish.

We took the dinghy ashore, passing two Antares on the way: Blue Summit and Echo.  Echo (nee Barefeet) was owned by our former crew, Chris and Erin. While there was not much within walking distance, the people were very friendly – we were even offered a ride by a passing motorist, after she confirmed that we were sailors.

Two Fish was eager to move along after our long stops in the Upper Chesapeake.  Our pace is slowed by weather, visitors and  cool places to explore.  The cooling weather is a constant reminder that we need to keep heading South, even if we are having a fun time.   Jason’s need to be at sea is also a force that causes the anchor to be weighed or the dock lines cast.

Being Maritime Museum addicts, our next stop was the dock at the St. Michael’s Maritime Museum. St Michael’s is a great little town for cruising – nice harbor, walking distance to restaurants and grocery and friendly people. As a bonus, since we were docked on the museum grounds, we were able to wander in and out of the exhibits over several days. As much as we enjoyed the walk-on/walk-off aspect of the pier, we always have to be a bit more careful tying up to a pier, since the boat’s contact points will change with the tide and we would like to keep her gelcoat on.

Here are a couple of tips we have learned about tying up.   The bow line should be a bit loose to allow boarding via the stern of the boat.   A tight bow line pulls the bow towards the dock and forces the stern away.   Try to find a cleat for the bow line and stern line that is directly abreast of the boat’s cleat.   These lines will pull the boat closer to the dock.   At midships use two spring lines.   One leading forward from midships prevents the boat from going backwards and the one leading backwards prevents the boat from moving forward.   The dock cleats should be chosen so they are 15 or more feet from the midship cleat.   If you are on a dock with pilings that stick out, then make the springs very tight and the boat will not move forward or aft.   If you are on a pier (fixed dock) then find out what the tidal range is.   All four lines should be 3 times longer than the tide.   This means that on a pier, the bow and stern lines will not be lined up with the nearest cleat.   They need wider angles to survive a tide cycle.   In these cases, adding lines from the outside cleats to the dock will hold the boat close for boarding while still allowing for the tidal changes.  Fenders can be attached vertically or horizontally depending on the situation.  We have also discovered the power of the ball fender and have two on board for docking. Maybe a full post on this topic later.

Some visitors thought that we were part of the Marine Museum, but we told them they would have to pay extra for the traveling exhibit. My only disappointment at the museum was the Waterfowl exhibit. Jason had promised the exhibit would be full of Retriever facts and photos, but instead it was filled with guns and bird decoys. He had been fooled by the statue of a Chesapeake Bay Retriever outside the exhibit building.  I learned that the Chesapeake Bay Retriever was descended from two Newfoundlands, rescued from a ship and subsequently bred with local hounds and spaniels.

We did not visit the local crab house because it wasn’t supposed to be great.  Also I was maintaining my crab ban in order to hasten the removal of the annoying crab pots from the bay.

From the time we started researching boats, until we boarded Two Fish, we were boat show groupies. (See posts Miami 2011, Miami 2012, Miami 2013, and Annapolis 2011. No post but we did visit Annapolis again in 2012). This would be our first time as boat owners so it was also my first time realizing I had no more space for most of the cool stuff on offer.

We enjoyed meeting Rod Johnstone, the designer and originator of J Boats and the Uncle of Gunboats. He patiently explained to me the reason for the flicker at the top of the J70 mast; it keeps the backstay away from the large roached main. We don’t need that, since Two Fish doesn’t have a backstay.

We also took advantage of the time by grilling the reps for Furuno, Max-Prop and other dealers. Furuno told us how to turn off our fishfinder via the TZ Touch screens and Max-Prop confirmed our need to grease the props a few times a year.

I think the Vesper rep was glad that we were finally able to stop bugging him about when the Vision would be out. He was excited to see how much we liked the product but was surprised to hear that we don’t take advantage of the filter feature.  We also finally got to meet in person our Facebook friends Holli and John on Shiloh. Thanks to Eric for keeping us up past our bedtime and drinking with the local cadets. Breakfast at Chick and Ruth’s Deli helped us get going the next day.

 

In an attempt to bolster the image of Baltimore, city officials branded it “Charm City” in 1974. The news reports the next day were filled with garbage strikes, police walkouts, and general looting. Town fathers would have to wait to earn their new name. The label did not catch on with the locals, but the Baltimore we encountered was charming. As much as I try to pretend I am now a cruiser with no home port, I am still a New Yorker. Those of you who hold some disdain for stuck-up New Yorkers can extend that feeling to me. I think that the biggest complement I can offer a city is “I could live here.”, when I am really just admitting that I have a hard time imagining residing anywhere other than New York.

We arrived in Baltimore while some large cargo ships were jockeying for position. Most of them responded to hails or announced their intentions on the VHF radio. The 800 foot roll-on/roll-off ship “Genius Highway” was trying to be stealthy, or as stealthy as a floating skyscraper can be.   Her AIS was indicating that she was turning to starboard, but we saw her turning to port.  We hailed her to find out her intentions.  No answer.  She then made some more unexpected moves, so we hailed again.  Her reply was hard to understand-the captain said he was going to a place not labeled on our chart.  So we slowed down and watched her do the unexpected.  She maneuvered closer to Two Fish, but Jason was able to keep us a safe distance away.   Reminds me of some cars on Long Island.   We tucked Two Fish away at Lighthouse Point and, with the help of Uber and the water ferries,  visited Fort McHenry, City Museums and Fell’s Point. Cruisers are waiting for the invention of the fold-able car, but, until that day we have used Uber.   Uber is a taxi hailing app for the iPhone which works wonderfully.  The best part was that our first few rides were in luxurious vehicles.  We realized we had the deluxe car option selected and changed back to normal.  In other towns, we have rented cars from Enterprise whose pick-up and drop-off service is valuable for cruisers.

Now back to my list of great city requirements.  My first requirement for a liveable city is great restaurants, preferably with fish tacos on the menu.

Second is water access. Third is walk-ability. Fourth – sports teams. Fifth – arts. Baltimore hits all of these points. For sports teams, I found myself rooting for the Orioles in the playoffs, but I could never support the Ravens. Yes, I could live in Baltimore. Now for some tourism.

For those of you who haven’t visited Fort McHenry, it was an important defense point against the British in the War of 1812.  The British had invaded the Chesapeake by land and sea and were on their way to Baltimore.  Francis Scott Key was aboard a schooner that was behind the British enemy lines.   I always had the image that he wrote the US national anthem while imprisoned in a dark dungeon, but the truth is much more comfortable.  He had a formal supper with the British aboard his boat.  After retiring for sleep, with a bit of sherry racing through his veins, he wrote  “In Defense of Fort McHenry”. Set to the tune of an old pub drinking song, it was later renamed “The Star-Spangled Banner”.

Best meal of the stay was lunch at Milk & Honey Market. Who can pass up Kohlrabi Soup and a Spicy Tofu Sandwich? The nearby Washington Monument was scaffolded but we enjoyed the nearby Walters Art Museum. We were helped in our exploration by locals Eric & Carla, who introduced us to Fell’s Point and the Ginger(color not flavor) Beer at Max’s. We also tried the local beer, Natty Boh, mostly because of the omnipresent logo.

Our neighbor for most of our stay was the Pride of Baltimore II. She is a large clipper ship, modeled after Chasseur, an 1800s clipper, part of the privateers that preceded our Navy.  In fact, her dinghy was named Chasseur. Unfortunately, Charm City’s waters are a bit polluted and debris-filled, despite the efforts of the local trash sweeper boat, so Two Fish urged us to move on.  The trash sweeper boat, like a DJ, does take requests and did a special clean up near Two Fish to remove our growing soda-pop bottle collection.   The freshly washed topsides became covered in a stubborn brown slime that Jason would hose multiple times a day with no success.   Oddly, the subsequent waters of the Dismal Swamp seem to remove Baltimore slime.   The fenders required some hand cleaning. Not a ton of volunteers for that job.

We took Margy and Monty for a test sail after being asked to bring them on a test sail by the Antares Factory.  They were great crew and helped us sail Two Fish to Rock Creek.  The winds were predicted to get up to 40 knots during the night so we wanted a good anchor set.   After a day with no issues it took us four tries before our anchor would set properly.  As we picked up for the third time, Margy asked “How many times does it usually take you?”.   This would be the first time that we need 4 tries.   The creek bed was finally conquered.  We invited a bunch of friends over for movie night, and enjoyed the comfy seats and home theater set up on the boat. The movie was “10 Items or Less,” starring Morgan Freeman.  Definitely 2 thumbs-up for the movie and for the lighter than predicted breeze.

Once again, Jason has accused me of getting soft.  And, once again, I replied “Soft is good”. Jason enjoys the tough passage and I enjoy touring a new town.  Jason’s accusation was driven by our recent marina stops. When not anchored in a remote bay, are we really cruising? Our trip south has taught us that there are many styles of cruising.   Two Fish is still figuring out her preferred mix.  As we pulled out of our most recent marina in New Jersey, I was looking forward to the beauty of Chesapeake anchorages.

But first, we had to traverse 50 miles north to reach the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal. When we turned the corner at Cape May, I was a bit concerned when I saw a waterspout in the distance. It didn’t seem like the weather for spouts, but there definitely was some distinctly swirly cloud thing on the horizon. I looked on the radar screen and didn’t see anything. I tried to determine the direction it was moving, and it wasn’t. I asked Jason what he thought. We tried to ignore it. It didn’t go away. Then we heard some boats a few miles up the Delaware Bay chatting on the VHF radio: the waterspout was the smoke stack for the nuclear plant at the top of the bay. Okay. Now I felt better. Sort of.

Our first anchorage was at the mouth of the Cohansey River. It was exceptionally quiet; we only saw two boats pass by while we were there. We took One Fish through the many bends of the river and after 6 miles arrived at the town of Greenwich, NJ. There was no wind that night – a perfect spot. We later spoke with other cruisers who had tucked away there in more stormy conditions. After being abused by short waves and terrorized by hidden crab pots, they did not describe the spot with the same superlatives.

The next morning, we headed towards the Chesapeake & Delaware (C&D) Canal. Eager to catch the current, we timed our arrival carefully. Unfortunately, both MaxSea and Eldridge were wrong on the direction and strength of the tidal current. The error seemed hard to explain since there had been little wind or rain, the usual causes of changes to tidal currents. We heard other boats on the VHF being surprised as well.  We motored more than we sailed because of the light winds. I have been surprised by the amount that we run the motors.   Light air is not bad news for me, as I prefer motoring in flat seas to 30 knots and boat-shaking waves.  Jason will never succeed in changing my mind, but I do enjoy seeing his enthusiasm for the big breeze days.  Our division of helm time is very wind dependent.   As the breeze drops my appearances at the helm become more fleeting.   I am ready to help if Jason needs a hand tucking in a reef, but generally he is okay alone on deck.  I feel much better in the safety of the master cabin.

We were excited to pass Chesapeake City – Mile Zero of the Chesapeake.  Our New England cruise was now in the rear view mirror and we were about to explore places we had never properly visited.

We found a wonderful anchorage in the Sassafras river – no root beer. Once again, we buzzed up river on One Fish to explore.  The walk was a bit of a flop, as we walked a major rural route with large trucks and soy bean field vistas.  We did discover The Granary in Georgetown.  It was here that I broke my crab cake ban.   The ban is a failed attempt to reduce the crab pot population.  I have previously complained about lobster pots but the Maryland Crabber has much to learn from the Maine Lobsterman.  The Crabman’s buoys, used to mark his pots, are often faded and dirty and thus look black against the dark sea.   The Maine Lobsterman has more pride in his work, and keeps his buoys clean and brightly painted.   These infestations of crab pots encourage Two Fish to sail on the edges of the main shipping channel.   I have to confess I like both lobsters and crabs, so my boycott is doomed to failure.

Our next stop was Swan Creek, adjacent to the famous crab town of Rock Hall. We grabbed a mooring ball right next to the channel so were able to watch the parade of boats enter and exit the area. I rode my bike to Eastern Neck – a local fishing bridge. Judging from the empty buckets, I think there might have been a bit more gabbing than fishing.

It was a short walk to Rock Hall; unfortunately, the Watermen’s museum was in mothballs but we had a

good meal at The Kitchen at Rock Hall. Other off-boat meals were at the local Harbor Shack, which on a Sunday afternoon is filled with fans dressed in full Baltimore Raven gear. Fortunately, they were not playing the Eagles that week. (Yes, I realize they are in a different conference. Reminder: I should check my fantasy football lineup for this week).

The ice buoy in the photo was a new navigation aid for me. I learned that many aids to navigation are picked up by the Coast Guard during the winter but some important locations are marked by Ice Buoys. These are conical buoys that are harder to see but are less likely to be damaged by ice.

Next stop: Baltimore.

Did Hitchock made a horror movie with a house that moved to a wildly different place each day?   The characters go slightly mad over time as they get lost searching their new streets for supplies. That is life aboard Two Fish except we have not gone mad, yet.   The vagabond life throws curveballs.   What type of docking or anchorage will we face tonight?   How do we get ashore? We usually take the surprises with a smile but sometimes a temper tantrum is in order.   The boat rule is that only one person at a time is allowed to behave like a three year old.  As soon as we are comfortable in our new community, the anchor must be weighed as the cold air from the north is inspiring us south.

For each of our new neighborhoods, there is usually a reason why we are glad to arrive and a different reason why we become eager to get going again. Choosing the anchorage, mooring or dock is a bit of a roll of the dice but we try to improve our odds by researching the cruising guides. More is better?  I bought both Maptech and Dozier Waterway cruising guides, Great Book of Anchorages, and Skipper Bob’s Anchoring in the ICW. For extra measure, we have the paper charts: Maptech Regional Chart Kits. So if you are following in our wake, this is The Two Fish pocket cruising guide.  However, the facts of the day can make a wonderful spot horrible.  Who does not love a small town on a warm day with a gentle breeze.   On the other hand, a nasty current and a nasty waitress could ruin a visit to someone else’s favorite stop. The joy of cruising is to make the best of where the ball lands.   The spot in the map above is as close as I could get to Two Fish’s lat/lon while we were at each location.

Padanaram/South Dartmouth/New Bedford Yacht Club

The two-page ad in the cruising guide promised ice cream, quaintness, and cafés. They had me at ice cream.  This seemed like a good place to stop after our nighttime transit of the Cape Cod Canal. We radioed the club and got directions to our mooring ball. Time for a nap.

An hour later, we were told that the person who owned the mooring ball, after

spending all season out of the water, had just decided that they needed their boat in the water NOW. Time to move – except with our droopy eyes we managed to hook a line in the rudder as we were departing. Jason hopped in the icy water to free the line. The launch driver was very helpful. Our next surprise noise was much better-Ken and Family just happened to have a boat in that harbor and sailed right by. It was great to catch up with the local sailors for drinks aboard Two Fish.

We had a couple of good meals at the Sail Loft down the street and enjoyed the feel of the club. Also, I always appreciate a mooring ball with launch service.  The up and down of the dinghy is easy but a launch is easier!  (BTW … Jason does most of the dinghy operation)

Point Judith Marina

I read some great reviews of the service at Point Judith Marina plus they were a Volvo Service center so the next stop was an easy choice. We were still having some issues with air leaks in our fuel system for our Port Engine and we planned to spend a week there to sort things out. This was a fantastic stop: Chen & Nancy drove up from NYC, Calypso joined us at the dock for a few days, Bud helped us sort out some Two Fish issues, Tim (the service manager at the marina) was super-helpful organizing all of our work, and the neighborhood was very summer New Englandy.  (This post is over a month delayed  so Rhode Island was warm back then.) As an added bonus, Newport Bikes (great store) helped me fix my folding bike and we took our bikes for a spin around Jamestown. It was a very full week and I would definitely return.

Bike Ride from Jamestown

Essex/Brewer’s Dauntless

The previous time that we went to the Connecticut River, we stayed at Saybrook Point Marina. Great people at the dock but we could only fit on the fuel dock and it was a bit bumpy for our taste. So I would recommend it as a convenient stopover near the mouth of the river, but not for an extended period. On our return trip, we decided to explore the river and pass under two bridges to get to Essex, CT and a mooring ball at Brewer’s Dauntless. I can’t really judge Brewer’s because our stay was cut short. Actually, it almost didn’t happen. Read Jason’s post on our Haul Out to get the full story. We took the launch into town for dinner. Little did we know that we would soon get to know both restaurants in town really well. We got some great recommendations for our extended stay and enjoyed Otto Pizza in Chester, the Blue Oar in Haddam and Marley’s Cafe in Essex(great fish tacos and a 10 yard ferry ride). If you visit, be sure to try the breakfast burrito at Olive Oyl.

We finally got back in the water and were on our way to NYC, but not before a second pass under the bridges. If you do head up this far, remember that the Old Lyme Drawbridge only responds to “Old Lyme Draw” on VHF 13 and only wants to hear from you when you are a few minutes away, or, as the bridgemaster said “Two Fish, we may raise and lower the bridge five times before you get here”. For the record he raised it zero times before our arrival but the operator has a flair for the dramatic and the charm of an ogre.

Passage to NYC

 

Liberty Landing Marina

We decided to stay across the Hudson from Manhattan after hearing that it was an easy place to pull into and that it had good facilities. I had called the day before to make sure that our projected early morning arrival was not a problem. When we got to the harbor, they told us to wait a half hour and then we were directed to the spot where 30 foot motorboats dock; we had been promised an end tie. It required three turns in tight spaces. We should have refused, but we went in with Jason deftly maneuvering Two Fish – the problem was “how would we get out”. In fact, not 5 minutes after we docked, another sailboat in a tight spot ended up crashing into 3 boats on her way out, bending another boat’s anchor and removing 7 of their own stanchions. We finally got a new spot and Jason magically got us out. After that we enjoyed our stay before setting off the next morning for our trip South.

 

Readers will remember that we started our trip close to 35 degrees South; Jason suggested that we challenge ourselves by sailing towards 44 degrees North.   No need to open your atlas, 44 North is Portland, Maine.  The plan became more concrete when we signed up for a Backroads bike trip which began in Portland and went on to Mount Desert Island and Casco Bay.

CAPE COD CANAL

But to get to our bike trip on time, we still had a few miles to sail. Our next leg of 66 nm from Pocasset  to Beverley (Massachusetts) began with a transit of the Cape Cod Canal. Unfortunately, I can’t contribute any tips on the transit because after helping Jason spot the entry buoys, I went to sleep. In my defense, we had woken up before sunrise so as to catch the Easterly flood from Buzzards Bay to Cape Cod Bay.

[Jason’s canal tips:  1) Go with the tide, 2) Don’t go to close to shore or a fisherman’s casting will hook your boat, and, 3) Place a courtesy call to Canal Control to see if there are any large ships expected during your passage.  Also, ask if the railway bridge is raised – it is hard to see at night.   4) I would not transit for the first time at night but the second time is fine. ]

Eventually Jason woke me from my slumber and I was greeted by so little wind that I thought we were inside a bottle. Beverly was still 40 nautical miles away. During my watch, my two fears of New England sailing crept into my mind.  The probability of  wrapping a lobster pot’s warp (line) around hungry propellers is high while transiting the dense fields of buoys common on the coast.  I would have to get used to dodging pots we traveled north to Maine.

Like with many of my fears, Jason thought my second fear was unfounded, or at least, remote. However, 30 minutes after the Cape Cod canal my fear was realized.  We sighted a whale.   Whales do not have radar or AIS and might topple Two Fish on impact (or so I thought).  Soon after shouting “whale ho” we found out that whales are easy to avoid but whale watching boats are the true danger.  Right whales gracefully transited our course for the next few hours until the wind filled in for a nice sail.  Despite Jason being below decks, he sensed the early puffs of the breeze filling in and immediately came on deck to raise the main.

Safely tied up in Beverly, we headed out for dinner.  Our dock was filled with locals, and had not yet been invaded by tourists.  What it lacked in picket fence charm, it made up for in a proper New England attitude.  Locals, fishermen and two sailors filled a packed restaurant where quality food was being served at the right price.   Two seats at the bar gave us a great platform for people-watching.  The Red Sox are doing poorly, so conversation was about the upcoming football season and who was paying for the next round.   I thoroughly enjoyed the incredibly fresh fish and chips.  Throughout the summer we discovered some of the best food in unexpected places.

 

 

SALEM

Salem, across the harbor from Beverly, has some whaling era houses as well as the impressive Peabody Essex Museum, where we saw a Turner exhibit.  Turner inspired an industry of  dramatic nautical painters.  Later, I was a bit let down while visiting the Nathaniel Hawthorne’s House of Seven Gables house.  It looked nothing like the cover of my Penguin Edition.  Visiting Salem did provide a good excuse to read The Crucible.  If you are close to Salem, visit the sights, but this was not a must-do on our list of towns.
Before sailing out, we were really happy to be able to meet up with our friends, and past crew members, Erin, Chris, and Darren. We missed you, Salwa.

PORTSMOUTH NH / KITTERY ME

From Beverly to Portsmouth (N.H.) is  49 nm, and, for once, we didn’t have to leave at daybreak. On land, I always wake up earlier than Jason, but at sea the salt air shifts his internal clock and he thinks 4am is a natural time to start a sail.

Our intended destination was East Badger Marina.   I spoke with the dock master  several times to arrange and confirm our space (pink job on Two Fish).  Each time we spoke, he reminded me of the powerful current that passes through the Marina.  After his third warning, I researched his claims and discovered that the tidal current in the Piscataqua River is listed in NOAA’s top 50 in the US. Two Fish’s arrival was timed so that the current would be close to slack,  but we still encountered 1-2 knots while docking.  When a new boat arrives, the entire marina comes to catch their lines.   We had 15 eager helpers.  I am impressed by year round liveaboards in snow states.   I would not last a day.   The drop in temperature even in the summer was apparent after transitting the canal.   My frequent wearing of fleece hinted to Jason that we should not linger long in these northern latitudes.

current from Two Fish on Vimeo.

 

The current would show its true strength after dinner ashore.   When we returned to the boat, the current was so strong that Two Fish was being pushed away from the dock and we didn’t have the strength to sweat the lines in. A bit of quick thinking by Jason and an almost-athletic jump by me and we were able to get back on board using a line and our genoa winch. Portsmouth was one of our favorite stops – great town, great people at the small marina and a beached submarine which had been turned into a museum.  The museum submarine, the Albacore, was the first true submersible that could travel at speed.  The tape-recorded stories from those who had been stationed on her livened up the visit.  If you find yourself a bit optimistic on your fix-it abilities, you might enjoy this submariner’s story: Early Life on the Albacore
While we were there, a modern nuclear submarine was towed into the nearby military shipyard, complete with escorts to stop river traffic during transit.  Portsmouth’s main strip had many restaurants and very few curio shops.   We are disappointed when we visit towns full of antique shops, but lacking in restaurants because we have room in our bellies but no space for grandfather clocks.

Our selection of our next port of call is similar to deciding what to cook.   First, we peruse the cruising guides (cook books) for places that catch the crew’s interest.  However, the captain’s choices are bounded by travel distance and weather (what is in the fridge).  We enjoy a variety of types of stops.  Some with museums and restaurants and others with nothing but a nice view.   If we don’t like where we are, it is only a slip of the line or a weighing of anchor to be on our way.

PORTLAND

Onward another 47 nm to Portland, Maine, where later in the week we would join our group for the bike trip.  Jason is a fiendish fan of Maritime museums so we rented a car to visit the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath.   Jason gave it 5 stars. We listened to an excellent 90 minute lecture on the Schooners built in Bath for shipping coal.  The museum houses many old runabouts.   The most curious vessel was powered by boiling naphtha rather than steam.  The reason for using boiling naphtha was to circumvent rules that required all steam-powered vessels to have licensed pilots.   However, naphtha tended to catch fire and the trade-off seemed foolhardy.   Another study in government regulation.

The “sculpture” of the Schooner Wyoming really brought to life how amazing the shipyards were. The Kennebec River was a popular setting for shipyards because of the protected harbors, ample width, and gentle slope for launching the completed boats. In the museum exhibits, I tried the old version of a windlass, where I pushed on the large wooden handles.   I am happy our windlass only requires pushing a button.   We were also excited to see an exhibit about the trade  route from Argentina to Maine – the same course we had sailed.

 

We spent a few days securing the boat in South Portland and meeting friends before our bike trip. It was a bit hard for Jason since the 6 day trip would be the longest he would be away from Two Fish since her construction.

These photos of our trip should give you a good feel for how spectacular the coast of Maine is. On the food front, I ate lobster rolls or some variation on the theme every day, and marveled at how much New Englanders love their ice cream, despite the cold evenings. One of our highlights was meeting Blue Dawn again and sharing a wonderful dinner in Rockport. My sports accomplishment of the week was cycling to the top of Cadillac Mountain after months without real training.

Fortunately, we returned to a safe and sound Two Fish just in time to make sure that she was secure for the 30 knot breezes expected that evening. Being tied to a dock is a bit harder on the boat than floating freely, so we made sure lines were secure and fenders were in place.  We borrowed fenders from the marina so that the boat was cushioned by an odd collection of 10 fenders and balls.  We tied some of the fenders to the dock cleats to create a floating barrier, not just fenders hanging over the side.

During the height of the storm there were small breaking waves coming across the docks.   They washed the wooden inspection ports out of position and tossed lawn furniture on its side.  We walked the dock very cautiously and on the windward side.

Like all good sailing plans, ours changed.   Into the trash bin went Provincetown and the Hamptons and back to Rhode Island via an overnight sail began the new plan.  I was eager to get back into the Sound where evenings were not so cold. But before we left Maine, we drank the bottle of wine that we brought from the Yacht Club Argentino to celebrate making it from 35 South to 44 North.