Experimental Tourists by Gail

When you hear “Kon-Tiki”, you might have a vague memory of Thor Heyerdahl and his misguided attempt to prove that the Polynesian peoples are descendants of trade wind travelers from South merica. DNA tests have since proven him wrong. We encountered Thor in Rapa Nui, where he raised the fallen Moas, and elevated himself to rock star status (pun intended), and in Fatu Hiva, where he instead angered the locals, perhaps with his self-importance, and was eventually driven from the island. His raft, propelled only by wind and oars, and […]

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Day 90 – Mountains to the Atolls

Landfall in the Marquesas was, for us, the beginning of our exploration of exotic islands. The Galapagos had choreographed crowds and Las Perlas had Jet Skis, both of which killed any sense of blazing a new trail. The vivid green palette of the Marquesan hillsides, the exceptionally welcoming people and the dramatic hilltops created a memorable two weeks. Unlike earlier explorers, we chose to explore Nuku Hiva in a manual transmission pick-up truck. After no discussion, I was elected driver, despite not having driven a stick in years. We stopped […]

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Two Fish Sailing mid ocean

Photos were taken by Hannah of Blue Summit.  Thanks!  They were taken 1,500 miles from any land on our way to the Marquesas.  

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Day 81 Random Thoughts

How do you provision your boat? A buying spree at the box store or sourcing local food products? Our new French friends have a great ability to save money and eat healthy. They collect their own papaya, mangos, bananas, shrimp, crabs, fish, lobster and hot peppers. (I think some of this is a moral grey area driven by land ownership). Others pick their own fruits and vegetables, but what impressed me with our friends was their purchase of a hen for fresh eggs. The previous time they tried this, while […]

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Day 79 Harbor Action

Yesterday, there was a boat approaching our anchorage in distress on the VHF radio. It was a 35 foot Catalina, a boat designed for coastal day sailing and often maligned as a blue water boat. They had left Panama 38 days ago with a Captain and two crew. Fifteen days into the journey, the starboard inner shroud (holds up the mast) parted. There are additional shrouds that secure the mast so the rig did not fall down, but this is a perilous situation for a boat 1,000 miles from land […]

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Big Crossing Photos

  Photo journal of Two Fish’s Pacific crossing from Galapagos to Marquesas

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Day Land Adventures Resume in Fatu Hiva

Our 3,000 mile trip ended with a whimper. The breeze died out 40 miles from Fatu Hiva and we sparked up our engines. The passage was over and I had an odd feeling. Like a guest had left. Yes, it is nice to have peace and quiet, but I already missed our guest, the long passage. Fatu Hiva’s harbor is dramatic. First named penis bay by the locals but renamed under pressure from the missionaries Bay of Virgins. The locals got it right as the bay is surrounded by phallic […]

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day 69 Still at sea

Ups and Downs of a Long Passage If you get annoyed waiting for an elevator or find the money machine too slow then a 3,000 mile passage is the right medicine. It will cure you of the “rush rush” anxiety. Miles come slowly on a sailboat and other times they come very slowly. On watches I tend to watch the bursting blue of the cresting waves, look at the complex clouds releasing energy and observe the feeding sea birds. This can occupy an entire 2 hour watch. The sea birds […]

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