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Valparaíso, Chile – Port City

(Left: Painting from Naval Museum of Sailing Ship Rounding Cape Horn)

In 1914 the Panama Canal opened, creating modern shipping.   Like any seismic change, the impact of the canal would be felt half a world away in Valparaíso,  Chile.   The town was booming from the shipping of copper, nitrates, guano and California gold from the Pacific to the Atlantic.   Valparaíso is a wel-situated stop before rounding the dangerous Cape Horn.  The Porteños of  Valparaíso (Port people) became rich.  The term Porteños is used for residents of BA, Valpo and a port city in Costa Rica.    Hmm, may be New Yorkers should join the club.

 

The architecture of Valpo (local speak for Valparaíso) tells its history with grand Italianate public and private buildings built during a period of shipping wealth.  The city has many hills that have created strong neighborhoods – who wants to walk up and down a hill every time for the newspaper?   The locals also made the city flatter by installing dozens of  funiculars.  Only 6 are running today as the rest are hindered by the combination of living on a very active earthquake fault and a less active government maintaince program.   During a ride on a funicular I hoped that the count of active funiculars would stay at 6 and not drop to 5.

 

Main Square

Main Square

Not all of the architecture of the era was grand, but it still tells the port city’s history.  I was attracted to the houses of the middle class which are clad in brightly painted corrugated metal.   The corrugated metal started its second life as a housing material after serving as ballast holder on empty inbound ships.    The ships would remove the ballast and its corrugated metal holders.   Quick minded Porteños recycled it into the sidings for their dwellings, protecting the adobe bricks from the moist sea air.

The Panama canal opening hurt the Valparaíso economy and the architecture shows this history of the rich fleeing Valparaíso.  Similar to the 1998 Asian financial crisis, there is a half built hotel in Valparaíso.   The sponsors of the project realized they were throwing good money after bad and left the stone outline of a 4 story hotel that has remained for the last century.

 

Gateway to Cape Horn

Valpo’s naval museum honors the sailors who have rounded Cape Horn. Rounding this tip of South America is the Mount Everest for sailors. The winds are unfettered by land and are chilled by the South Pole.   The Brotherhood of Captains of Cape Horn, founded by the French in 1937, created a few titles for those that had rounded the Horn.

ALBATROSS: Captain commanding a sailing vessel without using engines.  Two Fish one day?  Not a chance.Cape Horn Symbol

MOLLYHAWK:  Crew that rounded the Horn but were promoted later to the title of Captain.

CAPE PIGEONS:  Crew or passengers who sailed aboard a merchant sailing vessel that rounded the horn.

The system is pretty biased in favor of captains.  Crew in the old sailing ships had to climb 60 feet in the air during a storm, while the Captain sipped his tea.   When they returned to land, the tea sipper is referred to by an elegant creature and the guy who risked his life is called a pigeon.   It sucks not to be Captain.    I, Jason, would like to state for the record that I am the Captain of Two Fish.

 

Crazy Bike race

Every year some insane folks race down hill the  steep, narrow and bone breaking streets and alleys of Valparaíso.  The race is far too dangerous to be allowed in the US, so that makes it a fan favorite of mine.  Let YouTube take it away …

Arturo Prat – War of the Pacific

Arturo Prat

Arturo Prat

I hope my history lessons do not bore our readers, but learning the area’s history is one of the reasons I enjoy traveling.   I believe history often impacts cultures in profound ways and Chile is no exception.

The Chilean Naval Museum is a shrine to Arturo Prat, there are Prat statues across northern Chile and Prat street is the most common name for a road in Chile.   Why is Arturo Prat such a big deal for the Chileans?

He died in an incredibly heroic fashion while fighting the Peruvians in the Battle of Iquique.  The Chileans lost the Battle, but like the expressions says, won the war.   The story of Prat’s bravery was told around Chile and created an environment where Chileans supported the war financially and volunteered to serve in the military.   This conflict between Chile and Peru/Bolivia was fought in the late 1800’s.   The fight was over the barren land we had just visited, the Atacaman Desert.   This region was owned partly by Peru and partly by Bolivia, but the nitrate mines were run by Chileans.   The Peruvians started to nationalize some of these mines, and the Bolivians levied several large tax increases.   So the Chileans decided they would fight for the land and thus avoid nationalization and taxes.   Money and minerals are  frequent reasons to enter wars, and South America is no exception.   The Chileans were able to defeat the united opposition of Bolivia and Peru.   This huge victory would not have been possible without the inspiration of Prat.    The untapped mineral richness of these lands was unknown at the time.   The Bolivians lost their access to the sea and Peru lost valuable tax revenue.   In the ten years following the war, the national treasury of Chile grew by 900%, driven by nitrate mining revenues from the new lands.   Some years following the expansion the Chilean economy imploded as synthetic nitrate was created in Germany.   This depression in Chile was refered to as the Nitrate Crisis.  Easy come easy go? These days, copper fuels the economy and new demand for lithium and other metals provides a secure future.

So today  the Bolivians and the Peruvians are bitter about their lost land and it still shows.  One example is Bolivia will not allow Argentina’s natural gas to enter Chile.   A piece of advice – do not visit Peru or Bolivia and check into a hotel under the name Prat.


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El Desierto de Atacama

Soon we will be heading out to the Atlantic, so we decided to explore the opposite end of the spectrum-the Chilean desert.  The desert really suits me. The top five things I like about the desert are: Number 5- Sand is really soft to fall on (click here to see our sandboarding attempt), Number 4-it is only one letter away from dessert; Number 3-limited bug population; Number 2-it is warm; and, the Number 1 reason-the low humidity keeps my hair under control.

Oh, yes, of course it is beautiful and the landscapes are like nothing I have ever seen before.

Night Falling

Night Falling

Our town is San Pedro de Atacama in Northern Chile, very near to Bolivia and Argentina. Years ago, before the Spaniards, these regions shared a common culture and way of life. These days, the Bolivians want the land they ceded to Chile in a 1904 Treaty, and Argentina never turned on the pump to Chile’s heavily invested LPG pipeline, so the Pueblos don’t mix as much. (Ask Jason if you want to know more about Nat Gas politics.)  Many years before that, the Incan trail passed through the area.
The town is at 7900 Feet Above Sea Level. We stayed at a wonderful hotel and Cristobal, our local guide, led us on our daily excursions. Although I could hear Paul Theroux sneering in my ear at our pampered existence, we enjoyed it thoroughly.  The town is filled with small shops and hostels but was originally a small settlement. At the local museum, we learned a bit about the progression of settlers: the Atacamans, then the Incans, followed by the Spaniards. The Spaniards were fooled into coming over the mountains because the Incans told them there was gold to be found. They were greeted by a barren desert. Good way for the Peruvians to get the Spaniards out of their hair.

San Pedro de Atacama

San Pedro de Atacama

Most of the buildings are made of adobe and many have adobe walls around a small courtyard. The adobe walls are great at keeping the afternoon desert winds away.

Adobe Wall

Adobe Wall


The most striking thing about the landscape is that it goes on forever, and is extremely flat, except for sudden defined mountain ranges, caused by earthquakes and volcanoes. There are large salt flats, made up of salt from the volcanoes; the salt was brought by the water run off and then left when the water evaporated. Its composition is a bit more toxic than table salt so I wouldn’t recommend it.

Each morning and afternoon we went for a hike or a bike ride.  We enjoyed hiking in Guatin (translates to Valley of the Cacti) and seeing the tall, several hundred year old cacti with their intricate root systems. At Valle de la Luna, the landscape is formed by crystallized salt, embedded with clay. We walked through areas that were once salt mines, and in the distance could also see abandoned sulfite mines as well as mines from the latest Chilean export, Lithium.

The bike paths were a bit rocky, but the real adventure came one afternoon on the banks of the Rio Grande (the one here is not quite as grande as the on up North). We started off at the petroglyphs, which had been left by the Atacaman Nomads and augmented later by the Incans. There are lots of opinions as to what they represent. Maybe they were messages for following travelers, markers for places to come back to, or told the history of important events? When the nomads were traveling through here, the Rio Grande had animals and vegetation along the banks to sustain them. Despite the smaller size now, Cristobal warned us that we would have to traverse the cold river during the hike. After wading through once, we opted to climb up the steep slope, rather than wade through a second time. Little did we know that we were forging a new, somewhat tricky path along the ledge. It took a bit longer to find a feasible way back down than we had planned for, so by the time we waded through the Rio Grande one last time, the sun was setting and Edwin, our 4×4 driver, was walking the banks wondering whether we had been eaten by a puma.

Of course, when we were told about a lake that was so concentrated with salt that one could easily float, the local Polar Bear, aka Jason, had to give the ice-cold water a try.  I stayed onshore and looked at the flamingoes.

We and a few other hotel guests went stargazing with a local guide and astronomy expert. His combination of local and astronomical knowledge together with boundless enthusiasm made for a great evening. Click here to find out more about his efforts.

For our final hike, we chose to go to Quebrada de Nacimiento (13,760 Feet Above Sea Level) . The hike started with a rocky uphill climbing from 3000 to 4150 meters. Not quite Everest base camp but I could feel the uphill. Have any of you noticed that when you are the slowest hiker, you often get fewer rests because when you catch up to the others they are ready to move on? At least we all ended at the same spot and I, too, got to sit down and enjoy the view.

Final Hike

Final Hike

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See You (Cu) Later

Huge Trucks

Huge Mining Trucks

 

Copper (elemental symbol Cu) is the dominant portion of the Chilean economy, so we visited Chuquicamata mine in northern Chile to understand its production.

How did the Chilean government end up owning the mines?

The mines were initially developed by US and European engineers and in the case of Chuquicamata, the mine as an investment was bankrolled by the Guggenheim fund.    By the late 1950’s the bulk of the Chilean copper mines were owned by two US companies (Anaconda Copper* and Kennecott Copper).   *Anaconda Copper is now owned by BP, but does not extract any minerals; it exists to pay  for previous environmental damage done in the US.  The copper business is not clean.   Back to our story:  In 1969, the Chilean government bought 51% of the Chuquicamata mine in a “negotiated nationalization” to avoid conflict with the US.    Anaconda and Kennecott copper agreed to a plan that allowed the Chilean government to buy the remaining 49% of the major mines, if certain financial targets were achieved by the Chileans.

When Socialist Allende took charge in 1971, he chose a more aggressive approach and took all the mines with zero compensation for the North American investors.   He had huge Chilean support for this action and now on July 16 the Chileans celebrate National Dignity Day.   The United States had a cold response to Chile’s actions.    However, I can see the Chilean point of view during the 1970’s.   Copper is their country’s natural advantage. As two visitors, it is tough to judge the ownership, as the Chilean’s did gain the territory via a war with the Peruvians and Bolivians.  It was 80% of the economy in the 60’s.   How can the Chileans expect to grow with this huge asset  owned  by foreign corporations at off-market rates.

During Pinochet’s rule, the Chileans did a reversal and encouraged outside investors.  The “Codelco Law” of  1992 encouraged foreign direct investment into the copper mines and gave foreign investors protection from another round of nationalization.   The Chileans have embraced  the challenge to grow other industries besides copper, but the Chileans are still proud of the copper industry.

 

How do you mine copper?

Open pit mining

Open pit mining

The above photo is a portion of the Chuquicamata open mine. About 90% of what you see is rock that is being moved to gain access to the copper.  This useless rock is discarded and creates many man-made hills distinguishable by their flat tops.   If you squint at the photo you can see the huge trucks whose USD 40,000 tires are 15 feet high. The copper being mined lies along the same fault that runs through Los Angeles, the San Andreas Fault.

Copper ore must  be beneficiated (concentrated) since the rock is only 1% copper. The first step is crushing the ore.  We only saw the outside of a very large building with lots of pipes, conveyer belts and plenty of dust that was dedicated to the manly task of crushing rocks.  Much like coffee, the iron ore is roasted to convert sulfides to oxides.    After the crushing process, electrolysis raises the copper purity to 99%.  There are two types of copper ore from Chuquicamata, sulfide ores and oxide ores.  Oxide ores do not require roasting and thus are less costly to mine.   I skipped a few steps since I doubt any of our readers plan on opening a copper mine.   The skipped steps are floating the copper ore in a pool to sort the copper from the other content, drying the output and dousing it with Acid.

2 CuS + 3 O2 → 2 CuO + 2 SO2
CuS + O2 → Cu + SO2

This is dirty work and there are many toxic by-products such as sulfuric acid and arsenic.   At Chuquicamata the sulfuric acid is reused in the copper extraction process.   They even have a bunch left over which they sell to other users.   As for the arsenic, it is a sad story as the local water and the blood of the residents nearby have heightened levels of arsenic.   The copper company guide did not highlight the arsenic issue on the tour.

 

 

The Town of Chuquicamata 

Chuquicamata Town

Chuquicamata Town

When the Chuquicamata mine was founded almost 100 years ago it was more than a one company town.   It was a town owned by the copper mine.  The residents were all miners and their families.   The company owned the land, houses, church, school and stores.   As the environmental problems of living close to the mine became evident, the company decided everybody had to move.   The miners were given new homes in the town of Calama.   The company has decided to “freeze” the town in time.   During our visit, a worker was watering the grass in the main square.

At the same time, Coldelco, the mine owners, have allowed for large portions of the town to be buried with the mine waste.   A huge rock pile covers the hospital.   Walking the town during the tour was eerie.   I though I was in a Sci-Fi movie in which aliens had snatched all the humans.  Thirty thousand people used to live in this town.  Their new housing may not be as charming, but their blood stream will thank them for having fewer toxins.

 


 

 

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Chilean Workers’ Struggle (1900s)

Revolution 1

Part one of River Bank Wall Art of the History of Chile

I found this wonderful graffiti painted on the wall of the main river in Santiago (Mapuche River).   My Spanish is dog poor and my knowledge of Chilean history is gleaned from recent readings.   However, the always-brave blog poster that I am, I will try to translate these pictures.  The graffiti covers the workers’ struggle for rights and the ensuing cruel actions of certain governments.

The text portion on the left is written by Noble Prize winning Chilean poet Pablo Neruda (1904-1973).   My poor Spanish tells me it is about brotherhood being permanent.  Next to this are protestors holding up signs saying to stop abuses.   Pablo Neruda’s house is a stop for most tourists and we marched in unison.

The next portion of the painting is about the 1907 Santa María School massacre in which the government killed striking miners and their families.   They were mining for the hot commodity of the day – saltpeter, better known as nitrate.  The government hid the massacre from the people so the number of dead is tough to know, but most estimates are about 2,000 dead.

I have no clue who is painted in a fedora.  Any Chilean readers wish to help me?  The final section is a reference to the 1904 “Meat” Massacre in Santiago. The workers revolted against the central government due to an increase in the price of meat and the general soaring cost of living. The government responded by sending in the army. Two more days of riots followed and hundreds of civilians were killed on the streets.

Second Panel

Second Panel

The initial white poster in the second panel refers to “The Century”, which is a Chilean Communist Party newspaper.  It struggled to keep publishing while right wing governments tried to close it in 1949 and 1973.  It can now be found on the web.   The guy with the cool black-framed glasses (We saw them at the national museum) is Salvador Allende.   He was involved in politics for 40 years and ran 3 failed presidential runs before being elected in 1970.   His “if you fail, try again” strategy did not end particularly well for him.   During his brief time in power, he pushed for nationalization. Eventually he was cornered by army troops in the Presidential Palace.  He shot himself.  After that, the army leader Pinochet brutally ruled the country for almost two decades.

I do not profess to understand Chilean history, but it seems the US often backs the wrong guy?   Chile was in a struggle between capital and labor.  Capital controlled the government giving labor little outlet.  Communism’s allure to the average Chilean was possible wealth distribution and a chance at a better life.  But this struggle was seen by Nixon as another Cuba – another chance for the USSR and the USA to decide which way a domino fell.  The problem was that the superpowers’ play for control hurt Chile.   The US helped Allende’s ouster and Chile was given 20 years of a cruel dictator who killed thousands of people.

The last half of this second panel shows the peace and prosperity during the Allende leadership.   Allende was not in office long enough for much economic change.

pinochet 3

Third Panel

The start of this last panel shows the burning of the Presidential palace and the eventual death of Allende.  Pinochet is given a fleeting reference as the black and white image.   The remainder of the wall is the various forms of protest from art, to marches, to songs, to more violent clashes.  Eventually the conflict came to a boil and in 1988 Pinochet ran a vote to see if there would need to be a vote.   Seems odd?   He thought he had it in the bag, but lost and thus began his slow release of power.

During this period of cruel leadership, Pinochet and Chile had become an experiment for the University of Chicago’s economics principles.   They copied the course of Thatcher in the UK.   This gave the Chilean economy a stronger footing than many of their neighbors.  But that came at the huge cost of the Pinochet regime.   Today some Chileans still feel the economy has plenty of room to improve, despite the country already being touted as the miracle of South America.

 

 

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Gail spots a whale

While walking back from the kitchen, eagle eye Gail saw what looked like an Antares sailing past our apartment.  There many more needles in a haystack than Antares sailboats on the ocean.  With the zoom lens I was able to confirm the impossible, it was an Antares.   The 43rd Antares has just splashed – the odds of spotting one of these hulls out of all of the boats sailing down the East River are truly slim.   Many Antares are in the Caribbean, some are in the Pacific, and two are still in South America.   However, this needle just sailed by our apartment.

Anyone know Antares hull #20 Cinderella?

 

Cinderella on East Rivers/v Cinderella

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Paperwork for the boat

 

Plans of sailing over the  horizon without a care in the world have been curtailed by paperwork that seems to want to follow me to sea.    Here is a post on what I have learned during the process of setting up s/v Two Fish.  Please do not take this advice as a given.   It is more like clues from the clueless.    I did not study Argentine or Brazilian import duties in school, and given my sloppy dedication to my studies I doubt a class in this topic would have increased my knowledge.

This post will be more interesting to Antares owners, since they face the bulk of the South American documentation issues.   For others, this post will be as useful as a snow shovel is for a resident of Key West.

Step #1 – LLC or No-LLC

Evidence of new LLC

Evidence of new LLC

First, you must decide if you want to own your boat outright or manage it via a Limited Liability Company (LLC) that owns the boat.

Pros of LLC:   Like it says on the tin, an LLC “limits your liability”.   If a court battle erupts, this ownership structure allows you to separate your other assets from the operation of the boat.   Another pro for international celebrities is the ability to have your ownership be private.  That is why Two Fish and the Russian oligarchs chose the LLC format.

Cons of LLC:   You will have to create sufficient paperwork to support that the LLC has given you rights to the boat.   Imagine showing up in port with your US Coast Guard documents that say the boat is owned by some furtive sounding LLC.   “Mr Port Officer, The Dark Shadow LLC is owned by me.”   What do I have to prove it?  Is a note from my mommy enough?   So one must visit notaries, Consulates, and the State of Delaware to document ownership.

 

Step #2  – Create a Delaware LLC

We chose to create an LLC in the State of Delaware.   We hired Jan Painter of All Yacht Registries in Omaha to help with the process  (Phone:  402-505-8014 www.allyachtregistries.com).   Jan was very helpful and efficient, despite my preconceptions that Nebraska is not a state brimming with yachting traditions.  This first step puts you $450 closer to the poor house, but your LLC now exists in the State of Delaware.  Do not pack up the kids for a road trip to look at the corporate headquarters, but it will be searchable online, legal with the state clerks and will have a legal address in a cookie cutter office park that also has a chiropractor.

Step #3 – Get a Builder’s Certificate

Before you can start any paperwork, you need to own a boat.   Once you are near completion, the factory will fill out a “Builder’s Certification and First Transfer of Title”  that will be the basis for your next steps.    The form describes the boat’s length, displacement, engines and such.   It also lists the boat’s hull number.  Antares was very efficient in producing this document.

With a valid LLC (step #2) and a completed builder’s certificate (step #3) you can return to ALL YACHT REGISTRIES to apply to be a USCG documented vessel.

Builder Certificate page 1

Builder Certificate page 1

Builder Certificate page 2

Builder Certificate page 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step #4 – US COAST GUARD Documented vessel

USCG Documentation

USCG Documentation

I budgeted about 1 month of time to reach the end of step 4, even with express service.   All Yacht Services will now submit your LLC paperwork, your Builders Certificate and a completed application to the US Coast Guard.  The “Application for initial, exchange, or replacement of certificate of documentation; redocumentation” is about as friendly an application as the title would indicate.   But it was a breeze to fill out since All Yacht Services was in charge.   After a few anxious weeks, one is rewarded with a USCG document in classic terse language, stating that your LLC owns your boat, at least in the eyes of the US Coast Guard.    The next few steps will allow other authorities such as the Argentines and Brazilians to join in this view.

This next paragraph is way over my head but here is my explanation of Documentation vs Registration.  Recreational boat owners in the U.S. are required to register their vessels with their respective state governments unless they have documented their boats with the federal government.  Documenting vessels started as a way for the federal government to manage commercial shipping and its resultant taxes on merchant cargoes. Today the U.S. Coast Guard is in charge of documentation, and there are multiple types of vessels that can be documented, including recreational vessels.  Any vessel of 5 net tons or more can be documented.  Documented vessels are given unique official numbers similar to state registration numbers. However, documented vessels do not display their official numbers on the outside of the hull; they are identified by the name and hailing port. The application for documentation must include a name for the vessel, which may not exceed 33 characters. The name may not be identical, actually or phonetically, to any word or words used to solicit assistance at sea; may not contain or be phonetically identical to obscene, indecent, or profane language, or to racial or ethnic epithets. Once established, a vessel’s name may not be changed without application, fees, and the consent of the Director, National Vessel Documentation Center. There is no rule against duplication of names for documented vessels, so hailing ports are helpful in identifying vessels. The official number must be posted in a visible location inside the boat.

So why would you want to document your boat rather than simply register it with your state?

  • Documentation eliminates the need for state registration, until you stay in a state for a long period of time.   We may end up registering in the State of Florida, but will cross that bridge when we come to it.
  • If you travel to foreign waters, the Certificate of Documentation facilitates clearance with foreign governments and provides certain protections of the U.S. flag.   This is important to me.
  • It is much easier to track stolen vessels across state lines with the federally documented “chain of ownership”.   Our boat is larger than an iPhone, so this is not too important.

The USCG documentation needs to be renewed annually so mark it on your calendar as your mail service might be slow.

 

 Step #5  – FCC and a Call Sign

Radio Operator

Radio Operator

MMSI + Call Sign

MMSI + Call Sign

I am a bit of a rule follower and the rules state that to use your SSB,  you need to pay two fees to the FCC.   A quick trip to this web site will get you started: https://wireless2.fcc.gov/UlsEntry/licManager/login.jsp   One permit you need is the restricted radio telephone operator permit.   I am not sure what the consequences would be for not having this permit.   Somewhere on the FCC site they threaten to make you listen to elevator music for 1,000 hours on a poorly tuned AM radio.   So to avoid this, we have spent the money for this permit.   On the back of the license I was informed of its limitations pursuant to the Communications Act of 1934. Disappointingly, my new permit does not allow me to start an 80’s hits radio station.   I rather fancied the idea of becoming a disc jockey.

The second license grants you an important call sign for the Single Side Band radio.  It is also granted via the FCC.gov website.   This is handy for radio communications and required if you plan on using sailmail.com.    Sail Mail is a program that uses the SSB as a slow modem to check for text-only emails while mid-ocean.  200 bucks a year grants you an annual subscription to Sail Mail.    It includes software,  access to weather data and no usage charges, as long as you use it prudently.    Two Fish will use this for getting free weather updates mid-ocean.    As a random fact, the engineer who created the technology to use an SSB as a modem also designed the yellow first down line you see on TV when watching American football. At the end of the process, you should have two licenses from the FCC  (Ship Radio and Call Sign).   The site is a bit confusing but you will find your way through after being relieved of some hard-earned ducats.

This process also produces an MMSI number.  This number is used in Digital Selective Calling (DSC) and is need for modern VHF, SSB and AIS.   The AIS uses the MMSI number to broadcast your intentions to ships within VHF range.   The MMSI number can also be used to hail a specific yacht rather than summon it via the public channel 16.   And finally, DSC can be used for automated distress calls on the VHF or SSB.   If you fail after placing a satellite phone call, EPIRB, and a traditional VHF, call you can try this system.

Step #6  –  EPIRB

NOAA EPIRB Registration

NOAA EPIRB Registration

Darwin award winners are selected for doing incredibly stupid stuff that sometimes eliminates them from sustaining their lineage.   Previous winners have tried to ascend to 2,000 feet using a lawn chair and helium balloons.   After take-off, it was discovered that they had no landing strategy.

Not as dramatic an award winner, is buying an EPIRB and not registering the life saving device.   Registration is free and allows the Coast Guard to know who you are when you press the panic button.   They can call loved ones, who can direct the Coast Guard with additional data such as that the Two Fish crew are skiing in Colorado so it must be a false alarm.   This does incentivise the crew to stay on good terms with their emergency contacts.

The packaging with your EPIRB will have many places strongly encouraging you to register your EPIRB and avoid any chances of collecting a posthumous Darwin award.   Do spend some thought telling you loved ones how to respond to a call from the USCG.   The USCG will have the precise location of the EPIRB but want help to make sure it is not a false alarm.  We will maintain a float plan on the site and this, along with the Spot tracker, makes it easy for our helpers to assist in our search and rescue.   However, I think there are better odds we will use the EPIRB when lost in a carnival parade in Brazil or a bar in the BVI, as true emergencies are rare.

 

Step #7 –  Power of Attorney for Argentina

Power of A Page 2

Power of A Page 2

Power of Attorney

Power of Attorney

If the previous steps did not seem odd, arduous, and annoying, the next steps will certainly make you scratch your head.   Argentina carefully controls imports.  Boat builders that export their product get an exemption on import taxes for the parts they are including into the exported yacht.   A gizmo imported from the US might face a 50% tax, but if it is proven that the gizmo is going to be part of Two Fish then the tax is not charged.   This forces the Argentinian customs officers to keep a tight leash on the entire process.   The factory does a great job of coaching buyers on the requirements.

To get your boat out of Argentina you will need a Power of Attorney, if you have decided upon an LLC structure.   The POA can be written by the members and then signed in the presence of the Argentine Consulate.   You can imagine that it is not a daily procedure for the consulate, so when you ask for their help, work on your best manners.  It really helped to have a sample of a previous boat’s POA which gave the consulate confidence that it was an OK process.   I visited during the morning (9-12 for all new requests) at 5th and 56th Street.   I was able to get this stamp in the NY consulate but they were considering sending me to Washington D.C.   The basic text of the POA states that certain people are empowered by the LLC to use the boat in various ways.  The various ways do not include  a dance party platform, but more pedestrian activities like sailing the boat, fixing systems and working with Customs.   The cost was $60 payable only via a US postal money order.   I had to leave my passport and the POA with them overnight.   The document came back with a second page attached saying in Spanish that they had checked my passport and seen me sign the document.   Fingers crossed.

 

Step # 8 – Delaware Confirmation of the LLC

So you have told the USCG that your boat is owned by some made-up name LLC.   Sounds to me like you have given your boat away to an entity in the ether.  To prevent donating your pride and joy to the tax collector, one must write an operating agreement.    I am not a member of a bar, but I have been to a few bars, so here is the operating agreement we are using.   It tries to achieve two goals.   Firstly, the legal stuff which you should seek advice from counsel for at $500 per hour.  Secondly, the agreement is formatted such that the Brazilian Consulate will find it matches their specific needs.   Calm down,  I will have more detail on Brazil later.  Click on the link to open a PDF of a template.

Operating Agreement Template

 

Step #9 –  Time to visit the Notary  in Dover, Delaware

We bought the boat so we could travel to far away places. Little did we know that our first trip would be by car to Delaware to have the agreement notarized.  The reason we are driving to Delaware is that the State will only authorize Delaware notaries.   The State of Delaware can do its part by mail, but not the notary (as far as I could figure out).  Also we are in a small rush, so the drive is our best option.  Most Delaware banks and UPS’s have notaries.  (PNC Bank at 3 the Plaza) is closest to the Delaware Division of Corporations,  your next stop.  Or, the closest UPS is (http://www.theupsstorelocal.com/4435) — The UPS Store 73 Greentree Drive, Dover, DE 19904  (302) 346-1010 — Monday – Friday  7:30 am – 6:00 pm.

Notary Check List:

1)  Original Document

2)  Notary is approved by the State.  (It may be that the notary can only be from the State of Delaware)

3)  Notary’s raised seal or embossing seal  (Name, commission, expiration of commission, state of commission)

4) Documents with more than one page must be stamped on each page by the notary and the pages numbered  (ie 1 of 4).

5) The notary must write that the signatures were written in his or her presence.   Notary must identify the author of the signature by writing the signator’s full name. It must be clear which signature is being authenticated.    Good to reference the passport being checked for face and signature.  I hope the template helps achieve these goals.

6) Notary must state location, date and signer’s full name.

7)  You will need to do this TWICE.   One version for Brazil legalization and one for global apostillization (see Step 11, point 3)

 

Step #10  –  Answer this question honestly

Do you crave maple syrup at odd times?   Does Saturday night just feel right if ice hockey is on your TV?   Then you are Canadian and some of this post does not apply.

 

Step #11  –  Cross the street from the Notary and Visit the Delaware Division of Corporations

You probably want to confirm your LLC exists before the big drive.   Use this link https://delecorp.delaware.gov/tin/GINameSearch.jsp.

401 Federal Street Suite 4 is the office location.    Or better yet, surf their website and you will learn more.  http://corp.delaware.gov

Here is my checklist from this visit:

1) Certification of commision of the Secretary of State of the acts of incorporation.  In short an agent of the Secretary of State will say your LLC exists.  BOTH COPIES

If you were concerned that John Kerry might be the Secretary of State signing your boat documents then relax.   He will not be involved. Which is good because he has had 3 boating events that have slowed his career  (1)  registering his boat for tax-advantaged reasons  (2)  boating during the Egyptian collapse (3) Swift boat accusations during his presidential campaign.

2)  The state of Delaware will also need to certify the  public notary you employed to watch you sign your operating agreement.  Make sure they include the notary’s commission, jurisdiction and signature.  BOTH COPIES

3)  In 1961 most nations in the world signed an agreement about how documents would be signed.  Sort of an international notary agreement.   This is called Apostille.  The plan is to take take your first notarized operating agreement to the kind folks of the Delaware government to stamp, sign, or whatever motions are required to satisfy this international treaty.   This document will work great from Albania to Vanuatu but not in Brazil.    ONE COPY

The Delaware Division of Corporations can apostille or authenticate documents notarized by a Delaware Notary, certified vital records from the State of Delaware, and official State documents (e.g., background checks).

4)   The second copy will need the Brazilian Consulate’s blessing, after the state of Delaware has done points 1 and 2.

I spoke with the office, and the process, if you pay a bit extra, should only take a few hours.  Enough time for a relaxed lunch in Dover.   Anyone have friends in Dover?  After the documents are picked up it is a 1.5 hour drive to DC.

 

Step #12  Consulate of Brazil, Washington D.C.

The certifcation by a Secretary of State where a business is incorporated suffices for the Consulate to legalize the acts of incorporation.”  Quote from Consulate website and the reason we have come to visit.

You may boast that you live in a big town and have a consulate in your city.   I surely did, but it will not help.   Brazilian consulates are regional, so if your LLC is in Delaware then only the DC Consulate can Legalize your documents.   Sorry, but while in DC, you can see your tax dollars at work.

Consulate General of Brazil in DC is located on 1030 15th Street NW.   The office is open from 9 to 1pm.

For this step you will need

1)   Your notarized and Delawarized operating agreement.

2)  Passport

3)  20$ US postal money order

4) A self-addressed, paid, express mail envelope

The Brazilians are known for being particular so spend a bit of time looking through these two links.   Do not visit the sites for the Consulates in different cities as the processes may not match.

How to Legalize documents for Brazil

Procedures for Legalizing

Top 20 Mistakes

You have finished the voyage of documentation.   The Brazilians will Express Mail your legalized documents in a few days.

 

 

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New introductory video

Good friends have informed me that our “Become a Two Fish Fan” video was a flop.   Thank you good friends for telling me I had something in my teeth.  Friends tell you the bad news so you can grab a toothpick.   So after realizing that I was a worse actor than Ashton Kutcher, I decided it was time to try again.  Gail was kind enough to help by playing the role of Gail, which came to her naturally.  Be honest in the poll so that I don’t end up walking around with something in my teeth again!

 

 

The rejected video was scripted, which made the results very stiff, but this most recent video was pure ad lib.  The technology was also upgraded.   I set up three cameras: my DSLR, my compact and a Go Pro.    I also learned Final Cut Pro X, which is fantastic.   It took no time to learn enough to be dangerous.   It does three camera editing very well and a bunch more.

For those of you lucky enough to have missed the old version of the “Become a Fan” video, here it is. But you have been warned.

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Visiting the Factory Gail’s Way

Last week was my fourth visit to the San Fernando factory and, as always, it was great to see the progress on Two Fish. I have developed a routine for visiting.
During the months before my visit, I pack 4 or 5 plastic tubs of provisioning items – imagine buying supplies for a house on a desert island. The items include everything from tupperware to hacksaws to EPIRBs. I make sure all luggage is labeled well – including a label with where I’m staying in Argentina. We were lucky last December – one of our bags ended up in LAX and American Airlines was able to track us down and deliver it the next day, even though it was tagged with someone else’s airline sticker.

Packing Again

Packing Again

Balancing Luggage

Balancing Luggage

Then I gather all of my travel info. I created a document containing an overview map and details regarding shopping locations near the factory.(Visit Guide) Given my limited Spanish, I find it really useful to have maps and photos. Next, I try to review some Spanish, including “Los objetos que traigo son todos de uso personal” (The objects I am bringing are all for my personal use). Argentina has very strict customs regulations and it is important not to bring new items or things that look like they are intended for resale. Electronics are especially scrutinized. Most of our stuff has been household goods and tools and so far we have just had to answer a few questions. I usually  try to remember a few Spanish words to describe what I am bringing.

Interpreter ReferenceClick here ,or, on the link to the left to see an English to Spanish Glossary of Nautical Terms prepared by the US Coast Guard Auxiliary Interpreter Corps. Click here for a shorter, alternative doc that I found on the web. I can’t guarantee that all of these will work in Argentina but they are worth a try. The Coast Guard also has a translator guide for English to Portuguese.

After I landing and clearing Customs, I meet my pre-arranged ride and head to our storage unit. Then it is on to the factory for the real fun.

Our last visit was in December, when Two Fish was still in the fiberglass factory so it was a real thrill to see Two Fish in the finishing factory. Everyone at the factory is really helpful and we spent quite a lot of time reviewing our work order and looking at the boat. It is great to see items like hatches and anchor windlasses installed and to review plans for the rest of our items. While there was a lot of work to do, I did manage to walk on the boat multiple times a day to take photos and to sit in various spots and imagine myself in a finished boat on the water.

San Fernando

San Fernando

On my final day, I spent a few hours, wandering in San Fernando and I found a few more places where we can buy some last minute items. It was sort of sad to leave the factory and head back to NY because Two Fish was starting to feel like a home (yes, I have a vivid imagination). Below is a movie Jason put together, some photos and the visit guide.

I wonder if anyone would notice if I switched the boat number labels between our boat and the one due to splash in front of us? In the meantime, I have signed up for update emails from the Argentine Meteorological Organization so I can keep an eye on the weather on the Rio Plata.


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Pirates, Storms and Sea Serpents: Myth or Threat?

 

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After announcing at work that I was taking a sailing sabbatical, I was asked a bunch of questions.   This is the list of the 5 most popular.  Leave a comment with your questions.  The most popular question was about Pirates. I am not a thrill seeker or one who takes risk lightly, but encountering pirates is less likely than the risks we ignore daily in our land lubber lifestyles.

Pitt Pirate Mascot

Baseball Pirate

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Somali Pirate

Pirates have grabbed many headlines in the global press for their horrific actions in recent years.  I am concerned about some pirates, but not all.   The mascot for baseball’s Pittsburgh Pirates does not strike fear in me because the team lacks strong pitching, while the Somali pirate would cause heart palpitations because they can fire some scary heat. Our course is to sail in the Atlantic from BA to NYC where the piracy history is almost non-existent since 1800.   There are two sources for historical pirate incidents; ICC tracks commercial vessels and Noonsite tracks pleasure vessels (cruisers).  Here is an example of an ICC report from yesterday in Togo:  “Eleven robbers in an unlit boat approached an anchored chemical tanker.  Two robbers jumped into the water and attempted to board the tanker via the anchor chain but failed and returned to their boat. The robbers aborted the attempted boarding and moved away.” 

 

2012 piracy map

2012 piracy (click to enlarge)

Zoom on hotpot

Zoom on hotspot (click to enlarge)

The ICC data to the left clearly shows that the South American coast was clear of pirates in 2012.  I left the US off the map since no pirate attacks were recorded.  From the ICC it is clear that the hotspot is a couple of oceans away from our planned course.  I zoomed in on the hotspot in the map on the right.  The Arabian sea and parts of the Indian Ocean are spots Two Fish will avoid.   If I were passing through this region today, I would have my boat shipped to the Mediterranean.   NATO forces would agree with this decision but their view might change in the future.

The annual numbers for piracy were at their lowest in 2012.  Experts are unclear if this is driven by the larger military presence, more stability in Somalia, better armed ships or fewer cruisers passing through?  I will hold off on testing these theories because I do not want to become a data point on the above maps.   I told you I am prudent.  The noonsite website hosts an entire section on piracy information for cruisers.   They suggest using wasp spray as a defense as it fires for 20 feet.   I think the attackers’ guns might shoot a bit farther.   Noonsite suggests that several boats should travel together as a security measure.

My heart goes out to any fellow mariner that suffers under horrible pirates.  For us, I think it is important to frame this risk in terms of probability.  In our home town of New York City, we are enjoying a lessening in crime rates: only 400 murders last year.  It is a lot more probable that a New Yorker is murdered than is the victim of a pirate attack in a low-risk ocean.  Add to the mix car accidents, elevator falls, and bear attacks, and being aboard a boat seems like a safer option.  Petty crime is more of a concern for cruisers but I will discuss that in another blog post.

 

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The second most common question is will you guys get sick of each other?  The person asking the question usually has a bit of a grin and then states “I would kill my spouse after 2 weeks.  I need my space.”.    As I said in the previous post, you never know who is going to kill you.  Oddly, neither Gail nor I thought about this issue.  It only hit our radar after we had bought the boat, and we were asked by others.   This could be a very expensive oversight, or be a sign that we know how to compromise and find a balance.   To add to the risk, the boat lifestyle will be a big change.   Currently, I travel a decent amount for work so we often are apart for a week at a time.  I think we will be just fine if Gail gets her morning coffee and I can watch a movie after a bad day.    We have discussed this issue after being asked about it so many times.   We have decided we should try to do some things separately such as trips to the grocery store, visiting a fellow cruiser and other space-yielding activities.

 

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spanish_dancer

Sea creature at 9,000 feet deep

Do you sail at night or just anchor?  Our anchor rode (fancy name for the line attached to the anchor) is 250 feet and needs plenty of slack to hold.  The average ocean depth is 14,000 feet so we sail all day and night when on a passage.   But this question needs a longer answer because most non-sailors assume we will be sailing most of the time during this sabbatical.  Wrong.  I would predict that 2/3 of the time we will be at anchor.   Swimming, fixing the boat, biking onshore, rocking on the boat as we wait out a weather system, reading fun books and fix it manuals, and other fun and essential stuff.  We are not sure how long our passages will be.   Some will be as short as 5 hours (Carribean) and the longest will probably be 5 days.  On long passages we will try shifts of 4 hours on, then 4 hours off.   That means I helm for 4 hours while Gail sleeps and then we switch.   The process does not end until we reach the next anchorage.  We are trying to make this fun for ourselves and not a passage with Captain Bligh that is all about mileage.

 

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How will you survive Storms?  Antonio from the Tempest was not able to anticipate the storm that forced him ashore in the opening

tempeststormscene of Shakespeare’s play.   I imagine if he had had our technology then the outcome for the Duke of Milan would have been much different.   We have the ability to download long term weather forecasts, hire professional weather routers, use radar to track storm cells, and update weather reports every 4 hours via satellite.  With that technology, and an ability to relax and wait for the next weather window we should rarely see wind speeds over 40 knots.   I remember one decade-long cruiser explaining that he almost never encoutered those wind speeds because of prudent planning.   But what if the big stuff comes?   The boat is built to take a ton of punishment and we have storm coping strategies.   For example, we can operate everything from the cockpit, making it much safer in  high winds.   Also, we have  a drogue to stablize the boat in high seas.  In certain conditions we will “park” the boat in the ocean when it gets ugly via a variety of sailing techniques.   Back-winding the jib (trimming it from the wrong side) stablilzes the boat in high wind speeds. Running bare-poled (no sails) and a variety of other storm coping techniques are used by mariners to make a bad situation much less scary.

 

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floating-shipping-containers-i6

How will you cope with an impact with a foreign object such as a whale or a shipping container?   As you can see from the photo, modern shipping has its share of mishaps.   Occasionally, a strong storm or a poor securing job allows a truck size container to fall into the ocean.  Some continue to float for weeks and are a major hazard to marine traffic.   They can not be seen on radar and usually are found when the passing boat hears the crunching sound of impact.   Statistically, this risk is somewhere in the region of lightning strikes or lottery wins but we still have a plan.  Firstly, our catamaran is pretty hard to sink.  Two hulls, many water tight compartments and sacrificial keels are part of our protection plan.   At worst, we have a liferaft and a dinghy to move onto if salt water inspires a change of venue.

 

So what are our greatest fears?

th-1Gail’s Fears

1) Gail will get sea sick at times, even with modern drugs, ginger candies,  voodoo and other preventative measures.  It is no fun to be seasick, but even less fun when it seems it will never end.  Jason needs to make sure he can handle the boat alone during these times by choosing easy routes and drinking tons of tea, while trying to make Gail laugh.

2) Gail’s second fear is a bit illogical but very common with newbie cruisers.   She is worried she will come on deck at night to discover that I have fallen overboard miles ago.   This is not going to happen because we have many measures to keep humans on the boat and out of the ocean.   These “no swimming at night” measures are:  our enclosed cockpit, control lines led to the cockpit,  jacklines to keep people tied to the boat, flat decks with high lifelines, and personal AIS beacons.  I will be sensitive to her fears and make sure to stay safe as long as she does the same.

Jason’s Fear

London_Jammed1)  My biggest fear is being bored.  From Manhattan to a remote Brazilian anchorage, will I adjust to the lack of city stimuli?  No take-out food, no long walks exploring, no people-watching and no engaging co-workers.  I will both miss and enjoy being taken out of the action.

2) My second fear is physical discomfort.  We are lucky to have a very comfortable boat, but what is it like when you have the flu?  Or you are super-hot and have been stung by every insect on the planet?  Or want a bit of room to walk about?   We will find out how much of an issue this is for me.

Gail’s Final Fear

Gail is hoping that I stay comfortable since I can be a crab when bored or the living quarters do not suit.  If I get crabby, Gail may hoist me up the mast.

 

 

 

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Two Fish Now vs Two Fish in the Future

Ever see a computer program that takes a photo of a child and ages the face over the next 20 years? We have done the same but for our boat, Two Fish. Our splash date for the boat is just a couple of months away. On the left are the photos of Two Fish from my visit yesterday to the factory. On the right are photos of sister ships now happily sailing one of the seven seas. It takes the same imagination to see a completed boat based on the current status as it takes to see a 20 year old from a baby’s face. We hope to see Two Fish in her mature phase later this summer.

 

Master Cabin

44 master cabin

Two Fish (Today)

catamaran-master-cabin

Sister Ship (What Two Fish will look like)


Galley

galley 44

Two Fish

galley view

Completed sister ship


Salon

salon 44

Two FIsh

catamaran-interior-layout

Completed sister ship


Guest Cabin

44 guest cabin

Two Fish

catamaran-guest-bedroom

Completed sister ship


Helm

helm 44

Two Fish

sailing-a-catamaran

Completed sister ship


Port Forward

port fwd 44

Two Fish

catamaran-forward-cabin2

Completed sister ship


Bow
44 bow

Two Fish

sailing-catamaran-genoa

Completed sister ship

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